Wednesday is the day that most major metro newspapers publish their culinary sections. The Wednesday Wrap is a round-up of this week’s wine notes.

The LA Times leads, making an excellent, if safe, choice for its wine of the week. A blend of Syrah and Cinsault form the Côteaux du Languedoc, Beau-Thorey’s 2003 Danse de Ceps (16 bucks), says the Times, is “complex, giving this deep purple-red wine the taste of fresh, smashed blackberries.” Sounds nice.

Meanwhile, across the Hollywood Hills, the Daily News’ (and Red Carpet Wines’) Mike Ulanday picks the 2004 Mannina Cellars Merlot (17 ½ bucks) from Washington state for its red and Malm Cellars Russian River Valley Chard (20 bucks) for its white o’ the week. The Merlot, Mike says, is plumy, while the white has flavors of brioche, whatever that is. I guess we’ll have to try it and find out.

The NY Times‘ Eric Asimov ruminates on wines the “share and elusive quality.” Among the most elusive, Asimov notes, are the 2002 Radikon Oslavje Bianco, Lazy Creek’s wonderful gewurztraminer (’05), as well the Barolos of Giacomo Conterno and Bartolo Mascarello, and the Brunellos of Biondi Santi and Case Basse di Soldera. Now where can these be found?

Up in ‘Frisco, The Chron’s Olivia Wu heads south to the central coast to try a few Pinot Noirs and gives three stars to Calera Ryan Vineyard’s Mt. Harlan 2004 Pinot Noir (40 bones) and Morgan Rosella’s Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands 2005 Pinot Noir (55 bucks). The rest she rated at 2 ½ stars of fewer. Picky, picky.