Attentive Vinapedians will recall that last year we caused something of a… stir when we suggested that Beaujolais Nouveau might not be the glorious selection the marketing mavens would like you to believe. To address some of the more coherent (i.e. there were no threats to our friends and loved ones, no intimations about the marital or professional status of our mothers, no suggestions that our IQs were on “the tepid end of the 100 point scale”) missives we received, we believe it is vital to explain that Beaujolais Nouveau is not a bad pairing at all. That’s the problem. It never rises above “not bad.” It is OK. Acceptable. Perfectly drinkable.

But adequacy is not to be confused with excellence. In seeking to get along nicely with every conceivable side dish and permutation of seasonings, Beaujolais Nouveau is seeking merely to not clash with the curtains, as it were. This is hardly something to which one ought aspire. Especially since there are other combinations that may prove even more delightful and spot-on. So, if you have been charged with the noble task of bringing potables to the Thanksgiving feast this year, I have some suggestions, depending on the flavorscape you are likely to face. There are three basic categories of this. You have your sweet dinners (lots of yams, sweet spices, chestnuts, etc. littering the various dishes), your savory dinners (lots of sausage, cured-porky goodness, hot spices, mushrooms…the whole umami thing) and, less excitingly, the in-between dinner. Here are some suggestions to allow you to cope.

(In case you are keeping score, my favorite is the savory dinner. Anyway.)

Sweet dinner:
2005 Mirassou Vineyards Riesling Monterey County ($10)
Rating: ♠ ♠ ♠

Gentle golden straw color. On the nose, it’s crisp, racy and with clear stone fruit (white peaches, I think) and a gentle mineral edge. Very balanced,  with subtle sweetness and refreshing acidity. Don’t confuse it with an Alsatian or German variation; those tend to be too serious and pair off with slightly more “focused” foods. This, instead, is the ideal pairing for gently sweet fare (chestnuts in your stuffing? real cranberries? sweet corn?) and better yet, it’s also excellent on its own on a warm evening or with some East-Meets-West food that has a sweet edge.

Savory dinner:
2006 Ravenswood Winery Zinfandel Old Vine Lodi ($11)
♠ ♠ ♠ ½

Garnet. Berry preserves on the nose, with floral notes and the merest undercurrent of herbes-de-provence and mild spices. The raspberry/blackberry flavors are intense and quite deep (think Chambord) and yet they are balanced beautifully by the racy acidity and overall juiciness. Both fresh and refreshing, particularly on the finish, which is gently smoky, lavender-y and minerally. If your turkey has been rubbed with herbs and roasted amid cloves of garlic and shallots, if your stuffing features assertive sausage and mushrooms, if you save any hint of sweetness for dessert, then this is your wine.

In-between:
2005 Rosenblum Cellars Syrah Hillside Vineyards Sonoma County ($21)
♠ ♠ ♠ ½

Light ruby. Lots of ripe, cheerful fruitiness, and light oak/chocolate on the nose. Rather rich but not heavy in mouthfeel; supple, really. Very discreet blackberries and baking spices on the palate. The finish is one of charcuterie and chocolaty notes. If you are looking at a herby turkey and a savory stuffing, but with other sweetish side dishes, this is your friend. It will also prove spectacular with roast pork.

– J.M. Garcia III