Wednesday is the day that most major metro newspapers publish their culinary sections. The Wednesday Wrap is a round-up of this week’s wine notes

This week seems to be the week of obscure varietals. The NY Times‘ Eric Asimov leads with a soliloquy on the vitovska, a white grape sometimes found in the Carso appellation near Trieste in Northern Italy. Never heard of it but now that we know of it we’ll keep it in mind when we update the Varietals section. Asimov also shows us that white wines age better than previously thought.

Also well worth reading is William Grimes piece on Professor Jerry Thomas, the original star bartender who made mixology into an art in the 19th century. It’s a must read for any budding bon vivant. Here you can also read a chapter out of the new Jerry Thomas bio, “Imbibe!” Or you can buy the book from Amazon by clicking the ad below.

For its wine o’ the week, the LA Times evokes fall with the 2004 Giuseppe Mascarello Barbera d’Alba Santo Stefano di Perno ($21). This Piedmontese specialty, the paper notes, is “lush.” We believe them. 

Will someone please send us to Valafranca, Spain? The LA Times sent Corie Brown there to sample the wines made from the rare and mysterious Mencia grape grown in the treacherous Bierzo region, and we’re jealous.

Cheaper is Harder
Here is what The Miami Herald’s Fred Tasker had to say for himself in the inexplicably Thursdayish Wednesday Wrap. He says: “So here are my latest picks. As I always say, any fool can buy a good bottle of wine for $150. To buy a good $15 bottle, you’ve got to know what you’re doing.

2006 Redcliffe Sauvignon Blanc ($12), Marlborough, New Zealand: “lively and crisp, with those tell-tale New Zealand gooseberry and mineral flavors.”

2006 Don Miguel Gascon Malbec ($12), Mendoza, Argentina: “shiny, saturated deep violent color, rich flavors of black plums and blueberries.”

Wednesday is the day that most major metro newspapers publish their culinary sections. The Wednesday Wrap is a round-up of this week’s wine notes 

Recently a fan mailed and asked a question about wine and health. He said he had an issue with “carbonated” drinks and was wondering if there were any wines besides those that were clearly sparkling wines and Champagnes he should be careful to avoid.

While sparkling wines have bubbles, most are not exactly “carbonated” in the way that soda pop is carbonated. The bubbles in decent sparkling wines come from a secondary fermentation process. This can occur either in the bottle (Méthode Champenoise) or in bulk vats (Charmat). Only very cheap sparkling wines are made using carbon dioxide injection.

In any case, our bubbly-challenged pal should avoid anything labeled:

• Asti
• Cap classique
• Cava
• Champagne
• Crémant
• Sparkling wine
• Sekt
• Spumante (or Asti Spumante)

These are all very clearly bubbly wines with a high C02 content. (For more on sparkling wine, click here.) But what about others? Well, there are a few wines out there that seem like they are “slightly effervescent,” though they contain little C02. Among these are some white wines made with the Arneis grape of Italy. These have been favorites for a long time. We love the way they feel — not bursting with bubbles like beer, but just sort of tickling the tongue with their crispness.

It just so happens that this week’s Wine of the Week from the LA Times is the 2006 Vietti Roero Arneis. The Vietti, says the Times, is “crisp and light, with a touch of grapefruit and earth… tremendously food friendly. It plays well with prosciutto and other salumi, with cheeses, seafood and poultry. Need something to drink with linguine and clams? Or with fried, stuffed zucchini flowers? Try Arneis.”

If you would like to try this Arneis, click on the label below.

A vignette used to be a short story, so we’ll see how long Vignette Wine Country Soda lasts. According to Amy Scattergood of the LA Times, a Berkley-based company has produced the Vignette soda pop,  which is made from either Pinot Noir or Chardonnay grapes and “offers floral notes of the grapes, but none of the tannins or woody notes — and none of the alcohol.”

Our first response is unprintable. Our second is that the grape glut must be pretty bad if Pinot Noir has to be made into soda pop to turn a profit. Our third is to keep an open mind and try if for ourselves. (Note to our bubbly-challenged pal: Avoid this artificially carbonated product.)

Meanwhile, Eric Asimov of the NY Times has posted an interesting piece on the Carmenère-based wines of Chile and their history by way of getting to his weekly recommendations. These included:

The 2005 Viña MontGras Reserva ($9)

2003 Clos Apalta, a rare Chiliean Bordeaux-style blend ($70)

Photo courtesy Gaetan Lee via Flickr

The Gulpable and the Satisfying
No, it’s not a new soap opera. It’s the latest NY Times “Wines of the Times” video clip, narrated by Eric Asimov, on the subject of Wines Under $10. Check it out for yourself and see what’s recommended, or, to see our short list of their list, look down:

2002 Padre Pedro from Casa Cadaval (Portugal) — “Cherry fruit, spice and smoke flavors and enough tannin to give it structure”

2005 Domaine de l’Ameillaud (France) — ” Fresh and attractive with typical Rhone flavors buttressed by just enough tannin”

2005 Viña Gormaz Tempranillo (Spain) — “Unpretentious, juicy”

2006 Beaujolais-Villages from Georges Duboeuf — “Delightful”

2005 Wyatt California Cabernet Sauvignon — “Dark fruit, oak and spice flavors”

Kings of Italy
Did you know that the first King of a united Italy, Victor Emmanuel II of the House of Savoy, crowned in 1861, was originally the King of Piedmont? It’s true. Thank you, Garibaldi. For its wine o’ the Week, the LA Times goes Piedmontese, celebrating two of the more kingly Italian red grapes, Barbera and Nebbiolo, in the 2003 Bera Sassinto Langhe. The Times proclaims that its “beautifully balanced, it’s warm, earthy, very Piedmontese.” Makes you want to travel to warm and earthy Piedmont for a little wine-and-history tour, si?

Sufferin’ Sommelier
The Washington Post’s Karen Page and Andrew Dornenburg report that D.C.-area chefs are starting to cook with the wines list in mind. That must be a relief to the long suffering sommeliers of the world. The dining-out duo interview area chefs from Hook, in Georgetown and New Heights in Woodley Park, getting their picks. These include two favorites: 2006 Duckhorn Vineyards Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc ($25) and 2006 Bucci Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore ($22).

Napa (Auto Parts?)
The LA Times leads this week with an interesting piece by Corie Brown about Napa growers considering more automation in fear that their migrant workforce might dry up in the face of ant-immigration sentiment. It’s all very serious and dire I’m sure, but what we’re most interested in is the Brown’s intro, which states:

“Napa Valley vintners had already started buzzing about a promising 2007 vintage when Aug. 27 dawned and pandemonium broke loose. Temperatures soared above 95 degrees and stayed there for 10 days…

Then, as suddenly as the crisis started, it was over Sept. 7. The weather cooled, and the irrigation flow returned to its usual harvest-time slow drip. In keeping with Napa Valley’s signature bravura, the buzz about a stellar vintage resumed. The word in the vineyards? This last week of unusually cool days with lingering September morning mist is allowing the extraordinarily small berries in this year’s lighter-than-expected crop to finish ripening slowly. It should be a remarkable Napa vintage, perhaps the best in a decade.”

Well, who- or what-ever pick’s ‘em, now I can’t wait for the 2007s. Hurry up, time!

For its Wine O’ the Week, the Times picks the 2004 Sandrone Nebbiolo d’Alba Valmaggiore (40 bucks), which it says, is “a stunner. Structured and graceful, with a haunting note of violets and tar, it’s supple enough to drink now, with wine-braised meats, sturdy roasts and earthy pasta dishes.”

Miss Fishbeck! Take a letter: “To Mr. Luciano Sandrone… Please accept the check enclosed in exchange for a case of your 2004 Nebbiolo d’Alba Valmaggiore… Please FedEx them with all speed…”

Down in the Valley
Up here in The Valley, where temps are cool for a welcome change and it looks like it may rain for the first time in more than a year (pray, pray, pray), the Daily News’ LA.com supplement focuses on food and wine this week.

Among the items, a new store in Pasadena, called NapaStyle opens, providing the “little old ladies” of traditional Pas and the wretched soccer moms and fake-baked young producers of nouveau Pas with ecologically sensitive gourmet foods, wine and Napa-inspired tchotchkes. I’m sure it’s a delight. But you know what? NapaStyle should be two words: “Napa Style.” How hard is that?

The News offers a plethora of suggestions for wines this week from local wine shops. The Wine Country’s Randy Kemner, for example, suggests Borgo Magredo Proseco (10 bucks) for its white. Can you say “overstock?” C’mon! I’m not even going to mention their red pick. Not that we’re snobs or anything.

Anyway,  we’re nonplussed by most of the other picks, but feel that there two standouts: the 337 Cab, from Lodi, chosen by Bacchus wines in Manhattan Beach and the 2005 Alma Rosa from Santa Barbara. We admit to a certain prejudice for the 337 as our father went to high school in Lodi.

Wednesday is the day that most major metro newspapers publish their culinary sections. The Wednesday Wrap is a round-up of this week’s wine notes.  

That’s Italian!
The Patrick Comiskey of the LA Times takes us on a trip to Tuscany, there to sample Chianti’s cousins: Montalcino, Montepulciano, and the little known Carmignano. All three are derived mainly from Sangiovese, that ancient and hearty grape whose name means “blood of Jove.” The paper also offers a list of top Tuscan tastes lead by the 2005 Pinino Rosso di Montalcino “Clan Destino” (32 big ones). I’m sure it’s clan-destined to be a favorite.

For its Wine of the Week, however, the Times goes French, picking the 2005 Domaine Gardiés vieilles vignes ($28), saying the Languedoc blend of Carignan, Mourvedre and Grenache is “ripe, luscious and wild tasting.” We have never tasted a wild tasting wine. Clearly, that will have to change. 

Wild at Heart
Speaking of France, the NY Times‘ Eric Asimov takes us to rustic Cornas in the Northern Rhone, there to sample Syrahs that are “not so much rustic as wild, with captivating aromas of flowers and fruits, olives and bacon and herbs.” Again with the wild. Was there a memo going around I didn’t get?

For reasons known only to its publishers and The Lord, The Miami Herald publishes its Wednesday food culinary section on Thursday, which make absolutely no sense. The Oenophiliac, J.M. Garcia III, offers this round up from last week’s wine notes:

The Herald’s Fred Tasker, commenting on how we  in south Florida are spared that whole autumnal thing, looks for light, low-alcohol wines to carry us through until, say, November. (He seems especially bullish on Rieslings this week.)
 
Here are his three “Highly Recommended” picks:
 
2006 Ponzi Vineyards Pinot Blanc: “Rich and crisp with honey and Granny Smith” notes. $17
2006 Simi Roséto: “Fresh, tart strawberry flavors; light body, crisp and dry.” $15
2006 Columbia Crest “Two Vines” Gewurtztraminer: “Crisp and lightly sweet, with spicy lychee flavors.” (OK, Mattis, I know what juniper tastes like, but not lychee. I guess we’re even.)

Wednesday is the day that most major metro newspapers publish their culinary sections. The Wednesday Wrap is a round-up of this week’s wine notes. 

Viticultural Imperialism?
The SF Chron reports that California winemakers have invaded Chile and are in process of created some of that country’s first great Pinot Noirs. Are these Pinots C.I.A. backed? If so, we’ve got a good name for the new vintages: “Pinot Chet.”
 

Meanwhile, the Chron’s In Our Glasses column offers its Wine picks for barbequing. Among these low and mid-cost bevies is Yellow Tail NV Sparkling White Wine ($7),  Joel Gotts 2005 California Zinfandel ($14), the 2004 Mas Carlot Cuvee Tradition Syrah-Grenache Vin de Pays D’Oc ($10) and the 2005 La Bete Selection du Cave Oregon Pinot Noir ($17). Talk about “one of these things is not like the other.” We get it all except for the Yellow Tale plonk sparklers. Surely it’s the Mickey’s Big Mouth of faux champers. Thumbs way down (with apologies to Roger Ebert). A better selection would have been the Gloria Ferrer Blanc de Noirs ($20), or, if you’re looking to go cheap, the Charles de Fere Brut Tradition (France; $10).

Rock On
The San Jose Mercury’s Laurie Daniel reports from Chataneuf-du-Pape, France, on how the seemingly rocky wastelands of the area help produce some of the region’s best wines, by “absorbing heat from the sun during the day and radiating it back to the vines at night.” The rocks “also help the soil retain moisture in this sunny, warm, windy climate.” We’re always fascinated to learn such details. It makes us appreciate all that goes into the wine all the more. Thanks, Laurie.

For its wine of the week, the LA Times picks the 2005 Passopisciaro Rosso Sicilia, which, says the paper, “you’d never guess this Italian red came from Sicily.” It’s “Chiseled and crisp, its gorgeous cool-climate fruit shot through with spice and juniper.” We have no idea what juniper tastes like, but now we’re fixin’ to find out.
 

In addition, the Times‘ Leslie Brenner and Amy Scattergood (best surname ever) draw the plum assignment of picnicking in Santa Barbara’s wine country during harvest season. For details of this envy-inducing little wine-tasting junket, click here. Some people get all the good jobs, yo? 

The New York Times‘ Eric Asimov heads out west to sample the Pinot Noirs of the Santa Cruz Mountains area. He especially likes those of Rhys, a young vineyard that first produced in 2004 and is just now coming to full capacity. Also a nice assignment, but will he be heading to Chile any time soon?

Wednesday is the day that most major metro newspapers publish their culinary sections. The Wednesday Wrap is a round-up of this week’s wine notes.

The LA Times leads, making an excellent, if safe, choice for its wine of the week. A blend of Syrah and Cinsault form the Côteaux du Languedoc, Beau-Thorey’s 2003 Danse de Ceps (16 bucks), says the Times, is “complex, giving this deep purple-red wine the taste of fresh, smashed blackberries.” Sounds nice.

Meanwhile, across the Hollywood Hills, the Daily News’ (and Red Carpet Wines’) Mike Ulanday picks the 2004 Mannina Cellars Merlot (17 ½ bucks) from Washington state for its red and Malm Cellars Russian River Valley Chard (20 bucks) for its white o’ the week. The Merlot, Mike says, is plumy, while the white has flavors of brioche, whatever that is. I guess we’ll have to try it and find out.

The NY Times‘ Eric Asimov ruminates on wines the “share and elusive quality.” Among the most elusive, Asimov notes, are the 2002 Radikon Oslavje Bianco, Lazy Creek’s wonderful gewurztraminer (’05), as well the Barolos of Giacomo Conterno and Bartolo Mascarello, and the Brunellos of Biondi Santi and Case Basse di Soldera. Now where can these be found?

Up in ‘Frisco, The Chron’s Olivia Wu heads south to the central coast to try a few Pinot Noirs and gives three stars to Calera Ryan Vineyard’s Mt. Harlan 2004 Pinot Noir (40 bones) and Morgan Rosella’s Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands 2005 Pinot Noir (55 bucks). The rest she rated at 2 ½ stars of fewer. Picky, picky.