A Journey to Napa’s Rubissow-Sargent winery

By Leslie Nesbitt

 “This wine has balls.”

The waiter giggled and so did I. I had just tasted a smashing Cabernet at Ford’s Filling Station in Culver City, Calif., I had eaten there many times and knew the food was consistently good. I was trying Rubissow-Sargent wine for the first time.

Later I Googled Rubissow to see where I might buy a bottle or case in the Los Angeles area. One independent distributor was listed. Several Los Angeles restaurants were mentioned which offer the wine by the glass or bottle. The Rubissow website also noted that they were searching for a person or couple to oversee the vineyard and house. My husband Greg and I joked about our moving from busy Los Angeles to sleepy Napa, quickly transforming into Grant Woods’”American Gothic” painting.

Fast-forward to four months later. Greg and I are visiting in Mill Valley, Calif., and we rent a car and drive to the Napa Valley Rubissow-Sargent estate. (We had queried them online and received an invite to our own private tasting the next day.) After passing through the Napa city limits, we drove a narrow winding road draped by autumnal trees. We were instructed to make a left at the blue mailbox. We spotted the mailbox and turned, leaving the paved road onto a gravel incline. “10 mph,” said the sign. After climbing a few slopes we stopped before a high wire gate marked ”Please close gate; keep the deer out.” I love this kind of discovery and adventure. Totally non-commercial and certainly not gussied up to accommodate the lumbering tourist. Right on !   

Melinda greeted us warmly on the porch of the 105 year old farm house adjacent to the vineyards. It was she who had gotten the advertised job of  house and visitor caretaker! She said 100 people had applied for the job. She has a degree in agriculture and enjoyed the solitude offered by her new post. She told us she has dial-up internet only and occasional cell phone reception.

Seated at a rustic picnic table, we tasted several Rubissow-Sargent blends. (Cabernet Franc 65 percent and Merlot 35 percent.) A rustic plate set before us offered Spanish manchego cheese, crackers and raw almonds. While sipping the richly intense meritage, we marveled at the verdant landscape and hummingbirds that darted by. Indeed we had arrived on a day of warm sunshine and stunning blue skies. A painted crockery vase sat nearby awaiting our discards. Not a chance. Too good to toss.

The blends were both labeled 2003 which we learned means the year of harvest, not the year bottled. Named “Trompettes,” they are part of the Rubissow insignia. Next we tasted a smashing merlot. Flavors of black plums and dark cherry with a rich finish were bold companions to the sharp cheese. Strolling the grounds with glasses in hand Melinda answered our questions, spilled a bit of family gossip* and instructed us in the makings of the wine. Rusissow-Sargent produces just 2,000-3,000 cases each year, well under the 5,000 cases that mark a small production.

The vineyard is wholly organic. Returning to the front porch (think TV’s Petticoat Junction minus Uncle Joe,) the Cabernet was poured. Yes, my “warrior” Cabernet. Memory did serve. The wine’s wonderful density rang out on my tongue. I tasted clean rich lavender and other herbal aromas. The finish was strong and  bold. Each drop earthy and berry-beautiful, just like the night at I was first introduced. Some may consider my choice of blue phrase that night at Fords boorish, but I can’t think of a better compliment. This Cabernet demands a ribald moniker. 

* I took a pledge of secrecy, so shshshsh!